Saudi Traditional Dress Explained: The Culture Behind the Thobe and Abaya
在阿拉伯半岛的广袤沙漠中，白色长袍与黑色罩袍不仅是抵御炎热气候的实用服饰，更是流淌在沙特人血液中的文化基因。当你走在利雅得或吉达的街头，满眼皆是白衣男子与黑衣女子——这两种颜色构成了沙特最鲜明的视觉符号。然而，白袍与黑袍的讲究远不止颜色这么简单。从面料的选用到配饰的搭配，从日常款到典礼款的区分，处处暗藏玄机。今天，我们就来一一拆解这些“讲究”，带你读懂沙特传统服饰背后的文化密码。
In the vast deserts of the Arabian Peninsula, the white robe and black cloak are far more than practical garments designed to combat the scorching heat — they are cultural codes flowing in the veins of the Saudi people. Stroll through the streets of Riyadh or Jeddah, and you will see a sea of men in white and women in black, the two colors forming Saudi Arabia’s most striking visual signature.
Yet, the sophistication of these white and black garments goes far beyond mere color. From the choice of fabric to the art of accessorizing, and from everyday cuts to ceremonial masterpieces, every detail conceals a rich story. Today, let us decode these intricacies and unveil the cultural codes woven into Saudi traditional attire.
男性白袍（Thobe）：素净圣洁，暗藏细节
The Male Thobe: Pure, Sacred, and Full of Subtle Details
基本形制：白袍垂地
Basic Silhouette: A Floor-Length White Garment
沙特男性的传统服装是“萨乌布”（Thobe，音译也称“托贝”），伊斯兰世界对男子传统长袍的称谓因地区而异，阿拉伯语里也叫“迪史达什”，在中国俗称“阿拉伯大袍”，其款式通常为无领、飞袖宽腰、长垂及地。在沙特，纯白色是绝对的主流，剪裁多为H型直筒，线条干净利落。
The traditional male attire in Saudi Arabia is the Thobe (also called “Dishdasha” in other parts of the Arab world, and commonly referred to as the “Arab robe” in China). Typically collarless, it features wide sleeves, a roomy waist, and a hem that sweeps the floor. In Saudi Arabia, pure white dominates overwhelmingly, with a straight H-line cut that gives it a crisp, clean silhouette.
为什么偏爱白色？在阿拉伯文化中，白色代表素雅与圣洁，象征吉祥如意、事事顺心，因此逢年过节、喜事临门或有重大活动时，男人们必穿白袍。
Why such a strong preference for white? In Arab culture, white embodies simplicity, purity, and sanctity, symbolizing good fortune and smooth sailing in all endeavors. That is why on holidays, happy occasions, or during major events, men invariably dress in white Thobes.
一条看似简单的白袍，其实藏着不少细节工艺。传统沙特白袍的领口保留古典的双层三角衬设计，可拆卸以适应温差变化；胸部有一条垂直长条，上面缝着四五颗纽扣；袍身三处口袋，其中两个巧妙地藏在髋部两侧。一件好白袍从100到600沙特里亚尔（约合190到1150元人民币）不等，大多数沙特男性偏爱量身定制。
A seemingly simple white Thobe actually conceals many subtle craftsmanship details. The collar retains a classic double-layered triangular gusset design, detachable to accommodate temperature shifts. A vertical placket runs down the chest, fastened with four or five buttons, while three pockets are worked into the robe — two of them cleverly hidden at the sides of the hips. A good Thobe ranges from 100 to 600 Saudi Riyals (approximately 190 to 1,150 RMB), and most Saudi men prefer to have theirs tailor-made.
头巾（Ghutra / Shemagh）：头顶的“名片”
Headscarf (Ghutra / Shemagh): A Calling Card on the Head
如果说白袍是沙特男人的“正装”，那头巾就是这套正装的灵魂配饰。沙特男性在白袍之外，通常会在头上佩戴一块方形布料——折叠成三角形后盖在头上，再用一个黑色的圆环头箍固定。
If the white Thobe is the Saudi man’s formal suit, then the headscarf is its soul. Over the Thobe, Saudi men usually wear a square piece of cloth on the head, folded into a triangle and held in place with a black circular headband.
这块头巾主要有两种款式：纯白色的称为Ghutra（古特拉），红白格纹的称为Shemagh（希玛格）。前者在婚礼、朝觐等重大场合最为常见，显得庄重肃穆；后者则更贴近贝都因传统，日常生活中也颇受欢迎。有意思的是，红白格纹头巾其实并非沙特自古就有——它据说源自伦敦，直到约50年前才传入沙特，却迅速俘获了沙特男人的心。
There are two main styles: the pure white Ghutra and the red-and-white checkered Shemagh. The Ghutra is most commonly seen at solemn, grand occasions such as weddings and pilgrimages, projecting an air of dignity and reverence. The Shemagh, on the other hand, is closer to Bedouin tradition and enjoys wide popularity in daily life. Interestingly, the red-and-white checkered headscarf is not actually native to Saudi Arabia — it is said to have originated in London and only made its way into the country about fifty years ago, yet it swiftly captured the hearts of Saudi men.
头箍（Igal）：从骆驼缰绳到头顶礼冠
Headband (Igal): From Camel Hobble to Crown of the Head
用来固定头巾的黑色圆环叫Igal（伊戈尔）。关于它的起源有一个充满贝都因生活气息的传说：据说Igal最初根本不是头饰，而是用来拴住骆驼前腿、防止它乱跑的绳索。部落牧人为了方便，骑骆驼或放牧时顺手把这根绳子套在头上，久而久之，竟演变成了今天不可或缺的“礼冠”。
在沙特正式场合中，Ghutra配Igal是不可或缺的标配。沙特政府甚至规定，进入政府机构必须着长袍、戴头巾，在公共场合若只穿长袍内层则被视为违反公共礼仪法。
The black cord used to secure the headscarf is called the Igal. One legend, steeped in Bedouin life, traces its origin back to a rope used to hobble a camel’s forelegs and keep it from wandering off. For convenience, herders would loop this rope around their heads while riding or grazing the animals. Over time, it evolved into an indispensable ceremonial crown.
In formal Saudi settings, the Ghutra paired with an Igal is an absolute must. The Saudi government even stipulates that entering government institutions requires the full Thobe and headscarf. Appearing in public wearing only the inner layer of the robe is considered a violation of public decency laws.
罩袍（Bisht）：正式场合的仪式感
Cloak (Bisht): The Ceremonial Touch
如果一位沙特男性出席婚礼、盛大庆典或觐见王室，你很可能看到他白袍外面还披了一件镶着金边的外套——这就是Bisht（毕什特）。Bisht是沙特男士最高规格的着装，通常以羊毛或骆驼毛制成，夏季也有轻薄丝质款。镶边的颜色以金色最为经典，也有白色或银色款式。
If a Saudi man attends a wedding, a grand celebration, or a royal audience, you will very likely see him wearing a gold-trimmed outer cloak over his Thobe — this is the Bisht. The Bisht represents the highest standard of Saudi male attire, usually made of wool or camel hair, with lighter silk versions available for summer. Gold trimming is the most classic, though white and silver versions also exist.
女性黑袍（Abaya）：神秘之下的多彩世界
The Female Black Abaya: A Kaleidoscope Beneath the Mystery
阿巴亚：不止是一件黑色长袍
Abaya: More Than a Black Robe
沙特女性出门时，传统上会在日常衣服外面罩上一件宽松的黑色长袍，称为Abaya（阿巴亚）。它从肩头披至脚踝，轻盈飘逸，不显身形。
When Saudi women go out, they traditionally wear a loose black robe over their everyday clothes called the Abaya. Falling from the shoulders to the ankles, it is light and flowing, concealing the silhouette of the body.
在沙特，阿巴亚并非法律强制的着装（女性可以选择任何得体的服装出门），但在绝大多数传统沙特人心中，这套着装体系意味着“保护”“神圣不可侵犯”，承载着文化认同与宗教信念。伊斯兰教强调谦逊与端庄，黑袍正是这一理念的外在体现——它遮盖身体曲线，把女性的魅力留给家庭和至亲，而非公共空间的陌生人。
In Saudi Arabia, the Abaya is not legally mandated — women may choose any modest attire when going out. Yet, for the vast majority of traditional Saudis, this dress code signifies “protection” and “inviolability,” carrying deep cultural identity and religious conviction. Islam emphasizes modesty and dignity, and the black robe is an outward embodiment of that principle — it conceals the body’s curves, preserving a woman’s beauty for her family and close kin rather than for strangers in public spaces.
面纱的三重境界：希贾布、尼卡布、布卡
The Three Realms of Veiling: Hijab, Niqab, Burqa
沙特女性的面部遮盖方式因地域、家庭传统和个人选择而异，大致分为三种：
The way Saudi women cover their faces varies according to region, family tradition, and personal choice, falling roughly into three categories:
希贾布（Hijab）：包裹头发和脖颈，但完整露出面部，是最常见也最日常的选择。
Hijab: Covers the hair and neck but leaves the entire face visible. This is the most common and everyday choice.
尼卡布（Niqab）：覆盖全脸，仅露出眼睛的一条缝隙，是沙特较为传统的遮盖方式，特别在利雅得等内陆城市尤为普遍。
Niqab: Covers the entire face, leaving only a narrow slit for the eyes. This is a more traditional form of veiling in Saudi Arabia, especially prevalent in inland cities like Riyadh.
布卡（Burqa）：连眼睛部位也以网状面料遮挡。在沙特，这款主要流行于老一辈妇女中，年轻一代已较少使用。
Burqa: Even the eyes are concealed behind a mesh panel. In Saudi Arabia, this style is mainly worn by the older generation of women and has become far less common among the youth.
一位在沙特生活过的观察者这样描述：“她们身着黑色的长袍和头巾，有些甚至还戴着面纱，只露出一双眼睛。她们的穿著不仅是一种宗教或文化表征，更是一种社会规范和限制的体现。”
One observer who lived in Saudi Arabia described it this way: “They are clad in black robes and headscarves, some even wearing face veils, with only their eyes visible. Their attire is not merely a religious or cultural symbol, but also an embodiment of social norms and constraints.”
“黑袍”之下的“花袍”
The “Colorful Robe” Beneath the “Black Robe”
许多外国人对沙特女性的“黑袍”有一个巨大误解：以为她们一年四季都只穿那一件黑袍。实际上，黑袍只是“外套”。
Many foreigners hold a major misconception about the Saudi woman’s “black robe” — that she wears only that one black garment all year round. In reality, the black robe is simply the outer layer.
在黑袍之下，沙特女性的日常服装色彩斑斓、款式多样——尤其在婚礼、家庭聚会等女性专属场合，她们会脱下黑袍，露出精心搭配的华丽裙装、高定礼服。
麦加地区有名为Al-Masdah的传统女袍，用丝绸和金线刺绣而成；麦地那的Al-Kurta则是一种腰部收束的连衣裙，颜色随年龄而变化——年长女性穿素雅浅色，年轻女性则穿鲜艳丝绸。正如一句沙特俗语所说：“黑袍遮住的是身体，藏不住的是品位。”今天，不少沙特女性对黑袍本身的剪裁、面料、刺绣乃至搭配的鞋包配饰也极尽讲究，阿巴亚早已成为拥有千亿市场规模的时尚产业。
Underneath the Abaya, Saudi women’s everyday clothing is colorful and diverse — especially at women-only occasions like weddings and family gatherings, where they take off the Abaya to reveal carefully coordinated, resplendent gowns and haute couture dresses. In the Mecca region, there is a traditional female robe called Al-Masdah, made of silk and embroidered with gold thread; in Medina, the Al-Kurta is a fitted dress whose colors change with age — older women wear subtle light hues, while younger women don bright silks. As a Saudi saying goes, “The black robe covers the body, but it cannot hide one’s taste.” Today, many Saudi women pay extreme attention to the cut, fabric, and embroidery of the Abaya itself, as well as to matching shoes, bags, and accessories. The Abaya has long since grown into a fashion industry with a market worth hundreds of billions.
传统与变革：正在发生的故事
Tradition and Transformation: A Story Unfolding Now
近年来，沙特传统服饰也在经历微妙的变革。利雅得的年轻设计师开始推出微收腰版的白袍，在保留传统形制的同时注入现代审美。女性方面，虽然黑色阿巴亚仍是主流，但近年来对阿巴亚颜色的限制有所放宽，不少年轻女性开始在黑袍上加入刺绣、蕾丝、水钻等元素，甚至大胆尝试深蓝、灰色、米色等非传统色系。
对于外国游客而言，2019年之后沙特已不再强制女性游客穿戴阿巴亚和头巾，但要求着装得体，遮盖肩膀和膝盖。这意味着你可以穿着得体地探索这个国度，而不必“入乡随俗”到从头包到脚。
In recent years, Saudi traditional attire has been undergoing subtle transformations. Young designers in Riyadh have started introducing slightly waist-tailored versions of the Thobe, preserving the traditional form while infusing a modern aesthetic. On the women’s side, although the black Abaya remains mainstream, restrictions on its color have loosened somewhat. Many young women have begun adding embroidery, lace, rhinestones, and other elements to the black robe, and some even boldly experiment with non-traditional colors like dark blue, gray, and beige.
For foreign tourists, since 2019, Saudi Arabia no longer requires female visitors to wear the Abaya and headscarf, though it does require modest attire that covers the shoulders and knees. This means you can explore the country dressed appropriately without needing to “do as the locals do” from head to toe.
白袍与黑袍，从来不只是布料与针线的组合。它们是沙漠民族的生存智慧，是伊斯兰文化的外在表意，是身份认同的鲜明标记，更是在现代化浪潮中坚守传统的精神锚点。下次再看到沙特人一身白袍或黑袍时，希望你能透过这份“黑白分明”，看见背后那个层次丰富、意味深长的文化宇宙。
The white Thobe and the black Abaya have never been merely combinations of fabric and thread. They are the survival wisdom of a desert people, an outward expression of Islamic culture, a distinct marker of identity, and — even more — a spiritual anchor holding fast to tradition amid the tides of modernization.
The next time you see a Saudi man in a white robe or a Saudi woman in a black one, I hope you will be able to look beyond this stark black-and-white contrast and glimpse the richly layered, profoundly meaningful cultural universe that lies behind it.
(图源于网络,侵删)